finding rickshaw.

I’ve posted a bunch on Ahmedabad and Gujarat’s  social scene (or lack thereof).   But there have been a few occasions in the past ten months worth writing about…

1.  The conversation went something like this.

Felix: I can’t believe I came all the way to India and the only place I’m going to see is Ahmedabad.

Rick: Well, I guess we are even for Florence then.

Ketu: Why don’t we go to Mumbai for the night?

Felix: Do they have clubs there?

Ketu: Yes.

Felix: Do they take table reservations?

Ketu: Yes.

Felix: Can we stay at that famous hotel?

Ketu: Yes.

Rick: Simple living? Drgds.

24 hours later we are in Mumbai, led around the city by Ketu, staying at the Taj and spending an inordinate amount of time and money at Chinagate and Bling.  But it was perfectly Felix.  And amazing.

Sunrise at the Taj.

2.  After punking a bunch of the AIF fellows and Cameron to come to Ahmedabad, we (Ekta, Natassia and I) decided to show them what high society is like in A’bad.  Although alcohol is banned in Gujarat (it’s Gandhi’s state), it is still readily accessible through bootleggers.  In fact, Gujarat is the second highest alcohol consuming state in India (Punjab is the first).  The lure of alcohol has even been claimed to solicit votes in slums.  Anyway, so people do drink here, they just do it covertly – in their homes or for the wealthy on their private farms.  One of Ekta’s close family friends generously allowed us to use his farm…we celebrated Tash’s birthday, ate meat, screamed and danced to Desi Girl and drank.

Tash, Kerenben, Kirsten, Pooj, me, Phil, Meera, Caro, Hemant, Hamsa, Ekta, Muychul! & Cam took the picture.

3.  My friend Chandni lived in India for 9 months before I got here.  During that time, she fell in love with Baroda, a city 2 hours south of Ahmedabad.  She boasted big things about the city and although I doubted her claims, she was always right: they did have a Papa Johns, Kemrock did have a golf course, and there were 30,000 doing garba (dancing) in one place.  So when she told me she was flying in for a ‘Baroda Farm Party’ in March, there was no chance I would miss it.  DJ’s from Delhi, flame throwing bartenders, the largest dance floor in the city, gourmet food, and unreal drinks all on a farm.  Unreal.

Baroda?

C and me.

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Dear My Blackberry,

I hope that your new owner is treating you well.  I didn’t mean to leave you in the backseat of a rickshaw in Delhi – I blame Sanchos.  Anyway, I wanted to say thank you (and your family) for 5 years of excellent companionship.  We’ve been through a lot.  You’ve helped me pretend to be in the office when I wasn’t (re: & RE:), do work on long rides, subways and trains, keep in touch with my friends, check Hoyas and Pistons scores with no sports access in India, helped me navigate through small confusing roads in foreign cities,  and so much more.  I guess the world has caught up and more and more people are using blackberries or iPhones.  Remember the early days though when people would scoff at me for being on a virtual leash or call you a “crackberry”? Now people are ridiculed if they don’t have the app that tweets to the world exactly what they are doing, where, why and with whom.   We accept their apology.  In fact, you and your friends are helping change the world! Why make the poor buy computers when families can e-mail and sms, vegetable-wallahs or rural artisans can check commodity prices, and microbanking clients can check bank balances on phones like you?  You make the world a better place.

This is the longest I’ve been without you.  I miss you.

Your friend,
Rick.

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While there are many things about living in India that I’ll miss, there are a few that will always make me laugh:

1.  e-mails that conclude with “please do the needful” or “”you will be intimated shortly”. apparently, they are legacy phrases from correspondence with the the east-india tea comany from the 17th century.

2.  sexually charged songs like “get your freak on”, “get low”, and “smack that” as my caring but conservative neighbors use as ringtones. i’m tempted to tell them what the songs mean.

3.  from pooja: only in india can people be so very concerned with cleanliness that they take off their shoes before entering their homes and broom and mop twice a day but throw their trash directly into their own backyard.

4. the stamp guy outside of grocery stores is required to stamp your receipt as you leave. he has no other role — doesn’t verify the contents or even read the bill, just stamps. when asked, he admits that he sees no purpose to his stamping position.

5. general candidness: “your skin has become really bad here” (i know); “are you balding” (i guess my excuse of “it’s been like that since sophomore year” doesn’t work anymore), “have you gained weight” (no, but you forcing seven helpings of pau bhaji or threatening to tell my dad doesn’t help), and “shave your beard, you look Muslim” (this one makes me mad, so I respond with, “what’s wrong with looking like a Muslim”, which is generally met with silence)

6. a typical Indian front door uses a sliding rod lock that is reinforced with a pad lock. however, this mechanism allows for anyone to come and lock you out from outside. i’ve heard it’s not fun. also, i’m surprised that kids don’t use this as prank more often.

I'm surprised that more people don't get locked in.

7. many families in ahmedabad travel by scooter. father driving with baby in his lap. mom sitting either back to back with older child on the back-edge or with another child in her lap. and while the father has the safest seat, he is the only one wearing a helmet.

Safe??

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Although it’s riddled with grammatical errors, my Gujarati is finally understandable, I think.  Coming to Gujarat – my parents’ native place – and not knowing Gujarati was mildly embarrassing.  My weak Gujarati and my non-Indian name made many people question my Indian authenticity.  But last week, on two occasions, I was forced to speak Gujarati in impromptu fashion in front of a large crowd.  By no means did it sound natural, but I was able to speak confidently and clearly convey my message.

The students at the Behrampura UMEED center celebrated Environment Day last Thursday.  They sang, danced lectured and performed to the theme of preserving our environment.  It was all student-run,  so I was startled when I heard, “Rick Sir, will you please come and say a few words?”  Given no choice (and actually kind of excited to test my Gujarati), I spoke to the 100 person audience  (and the kids from the Behrampura slum who were spying through the windows) about littering.  Usually, when I speak to students, I have to repeat myself or have someone help translate.  This time, I was somehow able to package 10 complete sentences and clearly talk about why they should throw their trash in the garbage and no on the street!

Environment Day.

Then last Saturday, Natassia, Kathleen (a new intern) and I accompanied Tarun (an employee of the CVU from Behrampura) to a screening of the domestic violence video.  Arriving to the slum early, a large crowd of people gathered around us — most likely because Kathleen is white, tall, blond and generally foreign-looking.  To mitigate the awkwardness and inquisitive stares, I began speaking to the group about domestic violence.  Surprisingly, it started a lengthy dialogue.  This was the first times I was able to discuss a sensitive social subject with slum residents without the assistance of someone who knows English.

Domestic Violence Screening in Sarkhej.

Both experiences were extremely satisfying.  Too bad I only have 12 more days to use my Gujarati…

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Click To Enlarge.

One of my favorite programs at SAATH is the SAMVAD Community Video Unit.  Comprised of 5 youth from nearby slums, a program manager and a producer, the CVU investigates, scripts, films and produces video magazines on pertinent social issues.  Their intended market, though, is their community, not the mainstream.  They conduct local viewings to help empower their communities to lobby for their rights  and change mindsets.   Subsequently, they send the videos to NGOs and local governments to promote inclusive city development.

In light of mainstream India calling Slumdog Millionaire “poverty porn”, I shared the movie with the CVU to get their view.   Hesitant that the movie might offend them, I was relieved when they identified with the portrayal of slum condistions and were inspired by the hope of the film.  Together, we’ve made posters to help market their films:

Ration Ni Dukaan addressed ration card and supply distribution inequality. Within 4 months slum communities started to receive the same amount of the kerosene as the rest of Ahmedabad.

Amne Khilva Do. Children from slum communities challenge town planners to address education, development and safety needs. Scripted and shot by children, officials were compelled to act.

Maro Mat focuses on progressive disillusion of community voters with the Indian Electoral process. It aroused feelings of unity and individualism and conveyed the value of voting.

Ashaeen. Children living in slum communities, fortunate enough to attend school, were compelled to study Ahmedabad Municipal schools and uncovered the poor quality of education.

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A wounded bat somehow entered my flat last night and was hanging from my bathroom wall.  Using two of my bath buckets, I trapped the bat and let it go on my balcony.  Within minutes, I heard squealing noises.  I opened my balcony door and 5 bats were flying around their wounded companion.  Upon seeing the light, they all planted themselves on the ground in the shape of Batman’s logo.

5 Batman logos planted on the ground of my balcony last night.

I did some research on bats in India and found out that if a bat 1) makes it into your home, 2) is unable to fly and 3) squeals, it might have rabies.  Oh, and that if they are in your home, they are likely to bite you while you sleep.

Awesome.

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The below e-mail is from Rita, a UMEED alum and a current LRC member. As part of our e-mail adoption program, Rita frequently corresponded with the LRC counselor, Chaitali, and me. Her e-mails were written extremely well and were indicative of her well-rounded personality, so it was puzzling to us why she did not have a job. However, last week, as a result of Chaitali’s counseling and skill-matching, Rita found her ideal job as a trainer:

“Hi, Chaitali Madam

How are you? Our Relation is not only student and medam but also like a friend so pls send me message as a friend. And Second thing thank you very much because offered this job I am very happy for that. Once I have a dream to work with Umeed and you get me chance So thanks. Pls inform Rick Sir for my job because He always asked me that. If this is your umeed id than give me your personal id. ok bye and remember me.

Have a nice Day! Good Bye

Harm Regards,
Rita”

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“It’s good to be home.”

I’ve thought that twice over the past 3 weeks.

The first time was last week when I went back to the US for business.  Away for 9 months, the trip proved to be everything I expected, and more.  I drank tap water, ate beef, inhaled clean air, celebrated SHOBICA’s engagement (congrats and pictures) and spent time with close friends, Mihira and my sister.

It was amazing be home.

Congrats!

M and me.

Jeena and Leila, last year’s AIF Ahmedabad fellows, had mentioned that readjusting to America post-fellowship was difficult and that they “were missing Ahmedabad a lot”.  Upon reading that last summer, I was certain that I would not share their sentiments.  While I was excited and grateful for the impending opportunity, I love America and my life there.  I viewed this as a bracketed 10-month experience to learn about and apply myself to development.

So when I returned to India last Monday, I was surprised to feel so at ease and so at home.  It was the routine things, like the genuine hellos and welcome backs from our LRC members.  Or disappointing the rickshaw drivers by speaking Gujarati and knowing the fares (I guess my mustache did make me look authentic Indian).   Or going to lunch at Kirit Kaka’s for some vagarilo bahth (rice) as part of their family, not an American cousin-tourist.  And while, I’ll never get used to social inconsistencies like seeing rail-thin women digging ditches on the side of the road in 115 degree heat, children laborers or children using the sidewalk as a bathroom for lack of an alternative, it felt great to be back.

Salt pan children in rural Gujarat.

Harsh & Kani, my best friends.

I know it’s cliched to say that this experience has had a profound effect on me.  But it has.  I’ve never been more stimulated by my work.   I need to ensure that I keep at least one foot in the development space in the future, whether from India or the States.   I like it here.

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While I’m not on the Le’bandwagon, I do believe Lebron deserved the MVP this year and that he has the potential to compete with MJ. His stats this year coupled with his past performances (ie. the 48 point performance against the Pistons in Game 5 of 2007 Conference Finals = beginning of the end for my ‘stones) are incredible. But the coronation after his game saving 3 ball against the Magic yesterday was gratuitous and premature.  Jordan-esque?  Watershed moment?  Come on,  this was game 2!  Had Mo Money or DWest hit the shot, the reaction would have been of relief. Had Lebron missed, the loss could be considered as one of the largest playoff collapses in recent history – Cleveland and the King were up by 23 points…at home where they lost just two games all year.

The Jordan-over-Ehlo comparison is absurd as well.  Jordan hit a series-winning shot that prolonged the Bulls’  season and  Craig Ehlo’s legacy.  Cleveland salvaged game 2. They need to win this series AND the Cavs need to win the championship for this to be legendary.   Until that happens, this should be considered a momentary clutch shot, just like the ridiculous buzzer beaters in the Bulls-Celts series.  Win the championship and this is indeed watershed, like Jordan’s numerous finals performances or Horry’s 3-balls for the Lakers and Spurs or Magic’s baby hook or Tayshaun’s block**…

* I have not seen 90% of the playoffs this year as the IPL gets all of ESPN’s love here.  My thoughts are formed from watching gamecast and buffered replays.
** About go down 2 games, Tayshaun’s block saved the game.  You know how the story ends. Watershed.

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While at SAATH, I have met with a few incredible companies that are creating “social change” with very relevant, modern and venture strategies.

Shivia Microfinance

http://www.shivia.com/

Olly and Sheetal, two very decorated, successful and inspiring social entrepreneurs, started Shivia with the goal of using charitable dollars to fund micro loans. All returns on loans are immediately recycled back into Shivia’s central fund so that the local populations can continue to benefit and build on their independent financial foundations.  Their support doesn’t end with micro lending though; they provide their partners access to their network of tech firms, consultants, bankers, etc. They are currenlty working with SAATH.

RAN Research

http://ranresearch.com/wb/

I met Mitesh, one of the founders,  at an AIF youth employability meeting in Delhi.  RAN is an e-learning company that is using web-based and, more innovatively, mobile platforms (this is the future!!!) to enhance individual learning.  We are arranging a meeting between RAN and SAATH to see if UMEED or the Urmila Home Manager program could benefit.

http://ranresearch.com/wb/

QUEST Alliance

http://quest.eeaonline.org/

I mentioned Quest in a previous blog, but they are merging education with technology to enhance elementary education and youth employability.  They also had one of the most creative / effective pitch books I had ever seen.  Blew any banking deck out of the water.

Rang De

http://www.rangde.org/

The Kiva of India, Rang De allows Indian citizens to lend to local Indian enterepreneurs.  We are trying to use Rang De for “livelihood finance” at SAATH.  I believe that India has some regulatory conflicts that has prevented Kiva from pairing with Indian MFIs.  Given the landscape of micfofinance in India, Rang De has incredible growth potential.  They are also backed by a national bank which allowes them to offer very, very cheap loans to their impoversihed borrowers.  An extremely responsible approach to microlending.

Endeavor India

http://www.endeavorindia.org/

Endeavor doesn’t really belong in this group as it is global consulting firm that “transforms the economies of emerging markets by identifying and supporting high-impact entrepreneurs” rather than a venture Indian social firm.  But I’ve been in touch with the Endeavor India team for over a year and have recently gotten to know one of their employees, Ami, well.  If you haven’t read about Endeavor, take a look.

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