I live in Abu Dhabi. For those that have never been or even heard of the UAE’s capital, it’s located on a tiny peninsula dotted along the Persian Gulf, a short hour drive from (now) infamous Dubai. More importantly, Abu Dhabi is also just a three hour flight from Ahmedabad and, considering how my friend Rick has lived there for nearly 8 months, I felt obliged, motivated, and of course delighted to accept his invitation to go and visit him. I had heard stories from other friends how “Banker Rick” had enthusiastically turned into “NGO Rick*” and was now doing tremendous work with Saath, the non-profit that had motivated him to leave the glamorous corporate private-jet life he was living in Chicago for a simple good-will endeavor. As seeing is believing I booked my flight and decided to verify this rumor in persona.
Then...
I arrived at Ahmedabad International airport sometime around 4am, and with non-existent Gujarati, a heavy German accent, and what must have been a rather disheveled appearance searched first for my luggage and then for Rick in a sea of taxi drivers, baggage handlers, wild stray dogs, and the usual hustling and bustling one encounters at the airport. Standing in the hot humid air, my eyes darting left and right, looking for that beautiful familiar face, I deeply sympathized with the Elephant Man; fairly certain that at his very moment in time I was the only Westerner in Ahmedabad. After a brief memory lapse on how I had been convinced to come to Ahmedabad of all places, Rick parted the sea of strangers and kindly rescued me from the starring masses, allowing my first trip to India to commence.
Now I have traveled to third world countries quite a bit but living in what Fortune Magazine has repeatedly labeled “the richest city in the world” has skewed my perception of the real world to an admittedly great degree. Zooming through this eccentric city, scanning the streets left and right, I was smacked square as you may say, for the first in a long time, with reality. I first sensed, and then noticed that the quiet streets were alive. Men and woman, children and babies were sleeping on the side-walk; many without even so much as a make-shift shelter. I think it was right there and then that I was reminded that not Abu Dhabi, with its noveau lifestyle funded by the millions of barrels of oil money or Dubai with its Palm islands and tallest buildings in the world were the real world; but that this very city in India, Ahmedabad, in the great province of Gujarat contained the real truth.
Early the next morning awakened by the buzzing fan cutting through the thick air I peeked out of the window, cautiously I might add, and unsure of what I would find in the daylight. To my surprise I saw a city bustling with life. The sidewalks were filled with merchants and vendors –the city had come alive. After a rapid 10 minute rickshaw ride, which should have taken much longer considering the lack of airbags and the driver’s total disregard for human life, we began the day by visiting Saath where Rick introduced me to some of his colleagues and explained the general workings of the organization and its mission in this state. The city, one of the most diverse in India, is made up of Hindus and Muslims, who after periods of violent conflicts, are currently living peacefully side by side. Ahmedabad is split fairly even between these two demographics and Saath is strongly committed to enhancing the life of the poor of both religious groups. After a few brief conversations confirming that Rick actually worked here and wasn’t just on a year sabbatical, we headed to one of the Umeed’s locations, which is a vocational training program set up by Saath. Comprised of various courses, Umeed provides young adults the opportunity to acquire basic skills to secure entry level positions across multiple business sectors.
Umeed students.
As we arrived, several classes were underway including Nursing and Marketing. Entering one of the classrooms, the instructor halted the lesson and rising as one, the students provided us with a warm welcome. It’s quite a sight to see Rick in action. With a focused approach he singles out student after student encouraging them to answer in English, emphasizing the need to practice, always practice, asking them to share their experiences of the past days and to convey any concerns they may have with the program. The impact volunteers such as Rick have on these young adults is manifested in their interaction. Surrounding Rick, they are eager to share their stories and curious to hear his. While Rick is catching up with the Marketing students I’m led into the Nursing class and clumsily introduce myself to a room full of girls in the only comprehensible way I can muster –wild awkward hand motions.
What I find most remarkable about Saath (besides the classes offered through Umeed) is Saath’s presence in the slums. Walking through the narrow passages of these “cities within cities” the real impact of the NGO is evident. The standards are higher than I expected. In my shallow knowledge of the slums (which is purely based off Slumdog Millionaire) I envisioned heaves of garbage lining the streets, mudded cardboard huts and absolute misery but it’s not so. The streets are paved or at least graveled, and electricity boxes hang on more than just a few of the huts. Saath outposts are numerous, whether in the form of Umeed centers or micro-finance institutions. Rick tells me how the organization has raised the standards in many of the slums in Ahmedabad and beyond and continues to do so across the region with increased government support. It’s also interesting to see Hindus and Muslims living peacefully together; Rick narrates the past conflicts between the religious groups and I’m fairly certain he is basing the extent of his knowledge on the film Ghandi (though I unfortunately cannot prove this).
Children in Vasna wearing election campaign hats.
I must admit that even though this trip had its price – I spend the better part of the week bonding with my bathroom – it was an experience I’m glad I pursued and will remember in the years to come. It’s tremendous to witness the dedication that NGOs such as Saath and its volunteers provide to those less fortunate, foregoing self-enriching opportunities to enhance the lives of others. It was a stern reminder that my current circumstance isn’t the only thing to value and I’m confident that for those that will take the time to visit or even give their own time to such programs as Rick has, it will be an invaluable experience as well. And if you happen to be a Westerner traveling to Ahmedabad don’t fear this strange the city, for the only truly frightening thing is Rick’s handlebar moustache.
...now.
-Felix
*Rick’s Note: The events that transpired between April 18th to April 19th have been removed.
finding rickshaw. 
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